Category Archives: Moving on….

Audio Journey of a Neo Pilgrim

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Funeral crasher

“Do you have a camera?” The question–barked more than asked –came from a lanky young man in an Orioles baseball cap and a tee-shirt with the words ‘Hot Lover’ splashed across the front. I’d been aimlessly wandering the back streets … Continue reading

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A touch of the Irish

“May the roof above us never fall in, and may we friends beneath it never fall out.” Irish saying I don’t like Guinness and have a healthy fear of leprechauns, but nevertheless I joined the 29th St. Patrick’s Day Parade … Continue reading

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The touching

Sunil and I wander down to his boat and sit on the undulating water, watching the day unfurl. A man descends the ghat steps, a small monkey grins at us from his shoulder. Sunil notices where my interest is going. … Continue reading

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Tales from the time mandala

The ghats of Varanasi are the arms of the Ganges, supporting the devout as they wash away their sins or burn the bodies of those past sinning. Of all these sets of stone steps that lead to the water’s edge, … Continue reading

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Rakesh and the seventh stone

‘In the arms of Mother Ganga, To sleep the sleep of the stainless once more.’  Rakesh grew weary of fishing for customers, his line coming up empty each time. It was getting dark now, and the lights along the ghats … Continue reading

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Fire on the water, Christmas on the Ganga

Rakesh found some tape from somewhere, and we set about decorating the boat. We hung coloured streamers and strings of marigolds from wire stretched across bamboo poles, finished off with a pink and silver paper star. Huddled in our coats … Continue reading

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Double-sided drum

This morning my bicycle rickshaw passed a goat dressed in a turquoise sweater. “Perfectly natural,” said Alice, “since it is rather chilly.” These days, a damp, bone-chilling fog fills Bodhgaya in the early hours, burns off for a few hours … Continue reading

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The same son

It’s not easy to find out how someone died in India. You invariably receive the most meager explanation. Sometimes simply a body part. “Stomach,” or “Heart” or “Liver.”  So, when I asked Sunil how Rakesh’s father died, he didn’t feel … Continue reading

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The bucket bath….millions do it, so can you!

A LESSON FOR NON-INDIANS IN 20 EASY STEPS. YOU WILL NEED: 1 ten litre plastic bucket at 225 INR (or 300 depending on whether you or your Indian friend buys it) 1 plastic jug at 50 INR (or 100 depending … Continue reading

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