Category Archives: Moving on….

One man’s hell…

“Varanasi is a shit hole. If you can’t see it’s a shit hole, you’ve got your hippie shit-loving head screwed on backwards. Varanasi is a holy heaven. And if you can’t see that, you’ve got your tired tight-ass world upside-down.” … Continue reading

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Postcard from preconception…

“Remember me?” I did. It was the same kid who had ushered me into the gift shop, probably the nephew or son of the owner. “Sure,” I said, but kept walking. “Do you have everything?” “Yes, thanks.” We were in … Continue reading

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Burning is Learning

Twice I’ve tried to write about Varanasi. The first time my notebook mysteriously disappeared from my hotel room in Pahar Ganj, New Delhi. The next time, I dropped it in the Ganges. Varanasi is like that. Resists anything that tries … Continue reading

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Tiz Hazari

The metro spat me out at an obscure badly lit stop on the red line named Tiz Hazari. It’s named after one of the largest district courts in Asia. The Tiz Hazari Court complex boasts 400 courtrooms and a staggering … Continue reading

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Cockroach Hotel

Looking for a place to live in any city on a tight budget is usually tough, but doing it in Delhi can really kick the spit out of you with a steel-toed boot. After a morning of peering into the … Continue reading

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Mahabalipuram! (or 15 minutes of fame Indian style)

Where are you exactly?” “Mahabalipuram.” “What?” “Mahabalipuram.” “I’ll never be able to say that.” “Mahabalipuram!” I was bellowing this down the phone when I realized this place really suits an exclamation point. Said loudly and with enough vavoom, it carries … Continue reading

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Easter SMS from the orient

Not that I’m in the habit of wishing anyone Happy Easter, let alone a belated one. It’s just that I have to share a text I received on Easter from an Indian acquaintance of mine. My phone, which I reluctantly … Continue reading

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