Tag Archives: Asia

Double-sided drum

This morning my bicycle rickshaw passed a goat dressed in a turquoise sweater. “Perfectly natural,” said Alice, “since it is rather chilly.” These days, a damp, bone-chilling fog fills Bodhgaya in the early hours, burns off for a few hours … Continue reading

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The same son

It’s not easy to find out how someone died in India. You invariably receive the most meager explanation. Sometimes simply a body part. “Stomach,” or “Heart” or “Liver.”  So, when I asked Sunil how Rakesh’s father died, he didn’t feel … Continue reading

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The bucket bath….millions do it, so can you!

A LESSON FOR NON-INDIANS IN 20 EASY STEPS. YOU WILL NEED: 1 ten litre plastic bucket at 225 INR (or 300 depending on whether you or your Indian friend buys it) 1 plastic jug at 50 INR (or 100 depending … Continue reading

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The Delhi police, the CIA, and…me

I visualized bodacious diplomats in double-breasted suits shinnying down ropes from black helicopters, flashing their business cards and saying things like, “We’ll take it from here, ma’am.” The knock had the tone of entitlement. So I was only mildly surprised … Continue reading

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Surrealism in motion

I went to find the masseuse that Mee, my guesthouse manager, had recommended. “Her name is Da Da,” said Mee, writing it down like someone used to catering to tourist infants. Well, it was certainly the most surreal massage I’ve … Continue reading

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The Ganga Chronicles

“You canno forsch life inku enggi shay you wan jus fom guh powah of your fillings.” German Baba struggled to form the words around his toothbrush that had been busily working its way around his mouth for the past ten … Continue reading

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Chain-smoking guru

I went downstream – to imagine How things could have been different I went upstream – and worried How things might change But then your grandfather’s words Rippled underneath…. “The boat is the middle. Stay on the boat.” From Water … Continue reading

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The world according to Jude

“Tell me anything that’s ever happened to you. And I can improve upon the story.” From The World According to Garp by John Irving The waiters hovered in a corner, numerous but dutifully unconcerned by the culinary aspirations of their … Continue reading

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They all died in a pink submarine…

I have no idea how old it is, but it looks like it could have been designed in the 17th century by the submarine’s inventor, Cornelius van Drebbel himself, whose craft reached a depth of 15 feet during trials in … Continue reading

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The lop-eyed astrologer

“Look, what beautiful silks he has! He’s inviting us into his shop!” Daniel stopped and spun around on one foot in a bouncy half pirouette. For the past half hour, Lucy and I had been practically chasing after him through … Continue reading

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