Tag Archives: spirituality

Bodhgaya: don’t need a full moon for crazy

Even a full moon looks dusty in Bodhgaya. Beneath it’s grubby glow, a group of high-spirited Indian youths hijack a merry-go-round in a fair that’s closed for the night. One of them mounts a plastic baby goat while the others … Continue reading

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Double-sided drum

This morning my bicycle rickshaw passed a goat dressed in a turquoise sweater. “Perfectly natural,” said Alice, “since it is rather chilly.” These days, a damp, bone-chilling fog fills Bodhgaya in the early hours, burns off for a few hours … Continue reading

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The same son

It’s not easy to find out how someone died in India. You invariably receive the most meager explanation. Sometimes simply a body part. “Stomach,” or “Heart” or “Liver.”  So, when I asked Sunil how Rakesh’s father died, he didn’t feel … Continue reading

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The Ganga Chronicles

“You canno forsch life inku enggi shay you wan jus fom guh powah of your fillings.” German Baba struggled to form the words around his toothbrush that had been busily working its way around his mouth for the past ten … Continue reading

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They all died in a pink submarine…

I have no idea how old it is, but it looks like it could have been designed in the 17th century by the submarine’s inventor, Cornelius van Drebbel himself, whose craft reached a depth of 15 feet during trials in … Continue reading

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Burning is Learning

Twice I’ve tried to write about Varanasi. The first time my notebook mysteriously disappeared from my hotel room in Pahar Ganj, New Delhi. The next time, I dropped it in the Ganges. Varanasi is like that. Resists anything that tries … Continue reading

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