Tag Archives: Varanasi

Funeral crasher

Posted on March 30, 2013 by subincontinentia

“Do you have a camera?” The question–barked more than asked –came from a lanky young man in an Orioles baseball cap and a tee-shirt with the words ‘Hot Lover’ splashed across the front. I’d been aimlessly wandering the back streets … Continue reading →

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The touching

Posted on January 7, 2013 by subincontinentia

Sunil and I wander down to his boat and sit on the undulating water, watching the day unfurl. A man descends the ghat steps, a small monkey grins at us from his shoulder. Sunil notices where my interest is going. … Continue reading →

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Tales from the time mandala

Posted on January 6, 2013 by subincontinentia

The ghats of Varanasi are the arms of the Ganges, supporting the devout as they wash away their sins or burn the bodies of those past sinning. Of all these sets of stone steps that lead to the water’s edge, … Continue reading →

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Rakesh and the seventh stone

Posted on December 29, 2012 by subincontinentia

‘In the arms of Mother Ganga, To sleep the sleep of the stainless once more.’  Rakesh grew weary of fishing for customers, his line coming up empty each time. It was getting dark now, and the lights along the ghats … Continue reading →

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Fire on the water, Christmas on the Ganga

Posted on December 28, 2012 by subincontinentia

Rakesh found some tape from somewhere, and we set about decorating the boat. We hung coloured streamers and strings of marigolds from wire stretched across bamboo poles, finished off with a pink and silver paper star. Huddled in our coats … Continue reading →

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The same son

Posted on November 19, 2012 by subincontinentia

It’s not easy to find out how someone died in India. You invariably receive the most meager explanation. Sometimes simply a body part. “Stomach,” or “Heart” or “Liver.”  So, when I asked Sunil how Rakesh’s father died, he didn’t feel … Continue reading →

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The Ganga Chronicles

Posted on June 23, 2012 by subincontinentia

“You canno forsch life inku enggi shay you wan jus fom guh powah of your fillings.” German Baba struggled to form the words around his toothbrush that had been busily working its way around his mouth for the past ten … Continue reading →

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Chain-smoking guru

Posted on June 19, 2012 by subincontinentia

I went downstream – to imagine How things could have been different I went upstream – and worried How things might change But then your grandfather’s words Rippled underneath…. “The boat is the middle. Stay on the boat.” From Water … Continue reading →

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They all died in a pink submarine…

Posted on May 7, 2012 by subincontinentia

I have no idea how old it is, but it looks like it could have been designed in the 17th century by the submarine’s inventor, Cornelius van Drebbel himself, whose craft reached a depth of 15 feet during trials in … Continue reading →

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The lop-eyed astrologer

Posted on May 2, 2012 by subincontinentia

“Look, what beautiful silks he has! He’s inviting us into his shop!” Daniel stopped and spun around on one foot in a bouncy half pirouette. For the past half hour, Lucy and I had been practically chasing after him through … Continue reading →

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