Tag Archives: adventure

Fire on the water, Christmas on the Ganga

Posted on December 28, 2012 by subincontinentia

Rakesh found some tape from somewhere, and we set about decorating the boat. We hung coloured streamers and strings of marigolds from wire stretched across bamboo poles, finished off with a pink and silver paper star. Huddled in our coats … Continue reading →

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At the end of the world we are all Delhites

Posted on December 11, 2012 by subincontinentia

The end of the world is nigh and it’s starting in New Delhi. How do I know this? I have incontrovertible evidence. I paid 250 INR for Christmas lights – a shocking price even by ‘Second Coming’ standards. I rode … Continue reading →

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This explains everything…

Posted on November 26, 2012 by subincontinentia

Why some people love India… Because when you’re on your way to a meeting, the taxi driver stops at a temple half way up a hill, parks two inches from a thousand foot drop, disappears for ten minutes, and upon … Continue reading →

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Shopping in India: where change must come from within

Posted on November 24, 2012 by subincontinentia

It took me a while to find the right coffee mug. You know, the one that feels right and has handles made for humans over six. Now, which to choose? The teddy bear holding a rose and champagne bottle or … Continue reading →

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Bodhgaya: don’t need a full moon for crazy

Posted on November 22, 2012 by subincontinentia

Even a full moon looks dusty in Bodhgaya. Beneath it’s grubby glow, a group of high-spirited Indian youths hijack a merry-go-round in a fair that’s closed for the night. One of them mounts a plastic baby goat while the others … Continue reading →

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The same son

Posted on November 19, 2012 by subincontinentia

It’s not easy to find out how someone died in India. You invariably receive the most meager explanation. Sometimes simply a body part. “Stomach,” or “Heart” or “Liver.”  So, when I asked Sunil how Rakesh’s father died, he didn’t feel … Continue reading →

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The bucket bath….millions do it, so can you!

Posted on November 7, 2012 by subincontinentia

A LESSON FOR NON-INDIANS IN 20 EASY STEPS. YOU WILL NEED: 1 ten litre plastic bucket at 225 INR (or 300 depending on whether you or your Indian friend buys it) 1 plastic jug at 50 INR (or 100 depending … Continue reading →

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The Delhi police, the CIA, and…me

Posted on November 4, 2012 by subincontinentia

I visualized bodacious diplomats in double-breasted suits shinnying down ropes from black helicopters, flashing their business cards and saying things like, “We’ll take it from here, ma’am.” The knock had the tone of entitlement. So I was only mildly surprised … Continue reading →

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Surrealism in motion

Posted on September 30, 2012 by subincontinentia

I went to find the masseuse that Mee, my guesthouse manager, had recommended. “Her name is Da Da,” said Mee, writing it down like someone used to catering to tourist infants. Well, it was certainly the most surreal massage I’ve … Continue reading →

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Accidental paradise

Posted on September 29, 2012 by subincontinentia

Koh Chang island, Thailand. Tail end of monsoon, September 2012

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